You’re fishing on the Dordogne in summer, down river from Argentat. You’ve waited for the afternoon heat to pass, and now the river’s becoming alive. Lots of insects hatching, big ephemera, sulphurs, caddis flies. Fish rise everywhere. The fishing is tough, very low water, very weary fish, but you manage to catch a couple of nice graylings on dries. Time flows as the river, and soon it’s almost night. You climb back to your car. It’s 10 p.m. and you haven’t eaten a thing since noon. And you know that it could be a problem here, because everything is closed or about to be, so you would be in for a long drive home on an empty stomach.

But there is a place. The dinner in the Saulou campgrounds is open late. It has a very popular touch, and late at night it’s borderline Lynch. But the food is good, and you badly need it anyway. You’ll be served with diligence and humour, in less than five minutes you’ll feel at home. If you warn the boss in advance, they’ll wait for you when you fish into the night, on the late summer sunsets. Go and try it. Le Mouching recommends!camping